Where to Stay
The Honest Lawyer Hotel
Set in the Durham countryside just minutes from the city centre, the Honest Lawyer offers comfortable rooms, a relaxed restaurant, and genuine hospitality. Booking direct gets you the best available rate.
Durham, England
Your guide to arriving, exploring, and eating well in one of England's finest cities.
Where to Stay
Set in the Durham countryside just minutes from the city centre, the Honest Lawyer offers comfortable rooms, a relaxed restaurant, and genuine hospitality. Booking direct gets you the best available rate.
Getting Here
Durham is well connected by rail and road, making it straightforward to reach from across the UK.
Durham is served by LNER on the East Coast Mainline, with direct services from London King's Cross, Edinburgh, and Leeds. The journey from London takes around 2h 45m. Durham station sits on the edge of the city, a short walk from the cathedral and city centre.
Durham is easily accessible via the A1(M). The city has plenty of car parks as well as Park & Ride services that offer convenient access to the city centre. Guests staying at the Honest Lawyer benefit from free on-site parking, and the 6 and X21 bus services stop right outside the hotel, running directly into the city centre.
Things to Do
Durham is a compact city that rewards slow exploration, from its Norman cathedral to the wooded riverbanks that loop around the peninsula.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest Norman buildings in Europe, Durham Cathedral has dominated the city skyline since 1093. Entry is free (donations welcomed) and the views from the tower on a clear day are exceptional. Allow at least a couple of hours to do it justice.
Visit Durham Cathedral →The Story offers a gateway to the history of County Durham and its people. Housed in a striking building with a museum, a cafe, and beautifully kept grounds, it is well worth an hour of your time. Free to enter and far less visited than it deserves to be. You can even create a new story by getting married or registering the birth of your new one here.
Visit The Story →
The wooded path that loops around Durham's peninsula is one of the finest short walks in the North East. Following the River Wear beneath the cathedral and castle, it takes around 45 minutes at a gentle pace and can be picked up from the city centre. A proper Durham experience, free and accessible year round.
Sharing the World Heritage Site with the Cathedral, Durham Castle has stood since 1072 and remains in remarkable use today as University College. Guided tours take you through the great hall, the chapel, and the medieval kitchens, and it is a genuinely impressive visit for anyone interested in Norman history.
A peaceful 18-acre garden on the edge of the university campus, home to plants from across the world and a beautiful glasshouse. Far enough from the tourist trail to feel genuinely relaxed, and well worth an hour on a good day. Free for Durham University students; small entry charge for visitors.
Durham's covered indoor market and the surrounding outdoor stalls bring the city centre to life, particularly at weekends. A good mix of independent traders, local produce, and the kind of unhurried atmosphere that makes a morning wander genuinely enjoyable. The market has been part of Durham for centuries.
Where to Eat
A personal selection of places worth a visit, from a landmark steakhouse to Durham's most relaxed wine bar.
Durham's Michelin-recommended restaurant and the finest table in the city. A seasonal, ingredient-led menu delivered with ambition but without pretension. Book well ahead.
An Italian wine bar in the heart of Durham city centre. A relaxed, unhurried spot for an aperitivo or a long evening over a good bottle. Don't miss their Italian Afternoon Tea with a twist.
Durham's destination for serious fine dining. Coarse takes a considered, ingredient-led approach to cooking, with a menu that changes with the seasons. Book ahead.
Located on the River Walk, at The Food Pit you'll find independent, local street food vendors catering to all tastes. Be sure to pay a visit when you're in Durham.
The more casual sibling of Coarse. Isla does the classics well and adds enough of its own character to make it worth the trip. Dog friendly downstairs. Booking is highly recommended.
A riverside restaurant and bar serving breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and cocktails, with views of Durham Cathedral. One of the more complete options in the city whatever the time of day.
Explore County Durham
County Durham rewards those who venture beyond the city. Beamish is the standout, one of the finest days out in the North East.
One of the finest open-air museums in the world, Beamish brings the story of North East England to life across a sprawling site in the County Durham countryside. Walk through a recreated Victorian town, visit a working colliery village, and explore a Georgian farm. About 30 minutes from Durham city centre and well worth a full day.
Visit Beamish Museum →
One of England's most dramatic waterfalls, High Force drops 21 metres over a dolerite cliff in Upper Teesdale. The surrounding moorland is some of the most unspoilt in the Pennines and the walk to the falls is short but rewarding. About an hour from Durham city and worth combining with a drive through the dale.
An ambitious cultural destination in Bishop Auckland, centred on Auckland Castle and its remarkable collection of Francisco de Zurbarán paintings. The site includes galleries, a mining art museum, and beautifully restored grounds. A serious day out that has transformed Bishop Auckland and is well worth the 25-minute drive from Durham.
A former colliery town on the Durham Heritage Coast that has become one of the North East's most interesting places to visit. The beach at Seaham is famous for its sea glass, polished fragments washed ashore from the old glassworks. The harbour and surrounding coastal path make for a genuinely enjoyable half-day from the city.
Where to Drink
A personal shortlist: a proper pub, a gin bar worth seeking out, and the best flat white in the city.
Durham's most reliably good Irish pub. Well-kept Guinness, a warm welcome, and the kind of easy atmosphere that makes it hard to leave after just the one.
The best specialty coffee in Durham. A focused menu, quality beans, and a room that's just the right size. The flat white is exactly what it promises.
Named after the historic gin style, Old Tom's stocks a serious range of gins with the knowledge to back it up. Good for a considered pre-dinner drink or a slow evening at the bar.
A tucked-away Durham favourite, set in one of the city's characterful medieval lanes. A relaxed spot for coffee and something to eat, away from the main thoroughfare.
A CAMRA-accredited Durham pub with real ales, a good atmosphere, and no pretension. One of the better places in the city to settle in for the evening.
A dependable local in the heart of the market place. Good beer, good company, and the kind of straightforward pub experience that Durham does well.
Walking & Cycling
A network of long-distance walking and cycling routes that wind through County Durham and across the North East, following paths connected to the early Christian saints of Northumbria.
The Northern Saints Trails pass through some of the finest countryside in the North East, linking sacred sites, historic villages and dramatic landscapes. Routes range from gentle riverside walks to longer pilgrim paths, including stretches associated with St Cuthbert. Well waymarked and accessible from Durham city centre.
Explore the Trails →
About Chris
I've worked in the County Durham hotel and hospitality industry since leaving school. This guide is based on my own personal experience of the city, as well as recommendations from friends and family who know it well. I hope it helps you get the most from your time here.